April 2010

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On this episode we talk with a past guest and supporter of the podcast, Lisa from Cache Advance about geocaching with Palm WebOS. Lisa talks about the good and the bad of caching with that phone. We also talk about Garmin releasing new hand-held marine GPSRs last week.

LINKS:
Show Audio
Chat Log
Garmin Release notes
Garmin GPSMAP 78
Garmin GPSMAP 78s
Garmin GPSMAP 78sc


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Episode 151 – Cheap DIY Containers

by andy on April 21, 2010

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With summer fast approaching and more people placing geocaches, we decided to talk to HeadHardHat about cheap DIY containers that you can make mostly from things already found in your house.

LINKS:
Audio
Chat Log
Photography for cachers : Camera supports
Groundspeaks Survey
Another caching bomb scare
GeoSnippits: What not to hide as a geocache


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P4C: Camera Supports

by Darrylw4 on April 20, 2010

Having looked last week at the most important piece of photographic gear you can purchase, let's move on to the next most important item. Camera supports vary from the well know tripod through more innovative designs for solo shooting. Having some form of camera support is important to Geocachers for a couple of major reasons. The most obvious is that many times you'll need to be in the photos with a group of fellow cachers or some specific items in the background. While you can sometimes hold the camera at arm's length, that's not always going to work, particularly with larger groups or when you need something particular in the background. Another is that camera supports help steady the camera allowing for longer exposure times in low light. You'll also find that video is much easier to watch when captured from a stable platform rather than your shaky hand. I have a variety of supports at my disposal and will readily admit that more times than not the tripod stays in the car. I usually keep something handy, and there's a wide range of options from which I can pick.

We'll start by looking at the most obvious support. A tripod is always a good, safe photographic investment if you're willing to spend the money for good quality. They'll outlast your digital camera, and very likely your car. I have an older Bogen tripod which was the second I purchased new nearly a quarter century ago and it's still going strong. That first was an affordable model and only lasted a couple years. I've since added many more tripods for more specific goals like being small and light on the trail, or strong and better at handling the big lenses. The first rule to getting a good tripod is pretty simple though, you're not likely to find one at a big box store. The ones from the big box stores can be a good starter or throw-away options for lighter cameras and many travelers like them since they're cheap and easy to replace when destroyed or lost by the airline. There are also some small tripods built to stand on desks or be attached to branches. While these might not be tall enough to set-up in the middle of the trail you can frequently find a sign, railing, boulder, or tree to use. No matter which route you choose, carefully check the weight the tripod supports (not the weight of the tripod itself) and make sure that it will properly handle your camera with a little extra to spare for things like batteries or your hands. Choose well and you'll probably not need to replace the tripod as long as you cache.


photo by Lawrence of Berkley
The more simple form of camera support is the bean bag. These have regained popularity with the expanding use of digital cameras and cameraphones. A bean bag requires something on which to set it and the camera but doesn't require that the camera have a tripod socket making them ideal for cameraphones. Typically these are handmade by the user, but a variety of premade options have begun popping up. One of the more interesting derivatives is the Monsterpod which does require a tripod socket. It can stick to many smooth surfaces thanks to a gel in its underside. (I grabbed one of these Monsterpods but have yet to try it.) Try making a bean bag yourself, perhaps in your favorite colors. They're small and can usually fit into a pocket when on the trail.


photo by Lawrence of Berkley
The most interesting class of camera support really hadn't been seen much before the digital camera revolution. These are sticks with a tripod post at the end to secure the camera. These are designed to be held out in front of you for better self-portraits than simply holding the camera at arm's length. Some like the Xshot are available self contained, but I was recently contacted to try one designed for hikers. The StickPic is a simple ring you slide onto your trekking pole then attach your compact camera to it. They sent me one to try out and I really haven't used it much, but love the concept. These are great for getting a little needed distance between you and the camera. Don't count on them to help in low light situations as holding the camera out like that will be less stable than hand-holding.

This is by no means a complete list of options. There are all sorts of goodies left out from here, but I've tried to touch on some of the better, more common options for Geocachers. Here are my recommendations for Geocachers based on their camera type;
For cameraphone users: Try a bean bag. There are tripods (like the Gorilla Mobile) specifically made for some cameraphones and that's a great option as well.
For compact camera users: Try the Gorillapod. These are small, flexible tripods great for use on the trail and generally don't cost too much. If you're already using a trekking pole add the StickPic for those quick self-portraits.
For super-zoom users: A cheap tripod from one of the big box stores might be your best pick to start. That will allow you a range of heights and will free stand on the trail. Of course Gorillapod has options that work too and are worth consideration.
For DSLR users: For all your photography I can't recommend highly enough buying a quality tripod. A great alternative though is the bean bag which can get closer to the ground and will be easier to carry.
Future articles in this series will talk more about how to take advantage of these supports, but come back next week as we look a self-timers and remote releases.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

{ 1 comment }

P4C: Camera Supports

by Darrylw4 on April 20, 2010

Having looked last week at the most important piece of photographic gear you can purchase, let's move on to the next most important item. Camera supports vary from the well know tripod through more innovative designs for solo shooting. Having some form of camera support is important to Geocachers for a couple of major reasons. The most obvious is that many times you'll need to be in the photos with a group of fellow cachers or some specific items in the background. While you can sometimes hold the camera at arm's length, that's not always going to work, particularly with larger groups or when you need something particular in the background. Another is that camera supports help steady the camera allowing for longer exposure times in low light. You'll also find that video is much easier to watch when captured from a stable platform rather than your shaky hand. I have a variety of supports at my disposal and will readily admit that more times than not the tripod stays in the car. I usually keep something handy, and there's a wide range of options from which I can pick.

We'll start by looking at the most obvious support. A tripod is always a good, safe photographic investment if you're willing to spend the money for good quality. They'll outlast your digital camera, and very likely your car. I have an older Bogen tripod which was the second I purchased new nearly a quarter century ago and it's still going strong. That first was an affordable model and only lasted a couple years. I've since added many more tripods for more specific goals like being small and light on the trail, or strong and better at handling the big lenses. The first rule to getting a good tripod is pretty simple though, you're not likely to find one at a big box store. The ones from the big box stores can be a good starter or throw-away options for lighter cameras and many travelers like them since they're cheap and easy to replace when destroyed or lost by the airline. There are also some small tripods built to stand on desks or be attached to branches. While these might not be tall enough to set-up in the middle of the trail you can frequently find a sign, railing, boulder, or tree to use. No matter which route you choose, carefully check the weight the tripod supports (not the weight of the tripod itself) and make sure that it will properly handle your camera with a little extra to spare for things like batteries or your hands. Choose well and you'll probably not need to replace the tripod as long as you cache.


photo by Lawrence of Berkley
The more simple form of camera support is the bean bag. These have regained popularity with the expanding use of digital cameras and cameraphones. A bean bag requires something on which to set it and the camera but doesn't require that the camera have a tripod socket making them ideal for cameraphones. Typically these are handmade by the user, but a variety of premade options have begun popping up. One of the more interesting derivatives is the Monsterpod which does require a tripod socket. It can stick to many smooth surfaces thanks to a gel in its underside. (I grabbed one of these Monsterpods but have yet to try it.) Try making a bean bag yourself, perhaps in your favorite colors. They're small and can usually fit into a pocket when on the trail.


photo by Lawrence of Berkley
The most interesting class of camera support really hadn't been seen much before the digital camera revolution. These are sticks with a tripod post at the end to secure the camera. These are designed to be held out in front of you for better self-portraits than simply holding the camera at arm's length. Some like the Xshot are available self contained, but I was recently contacted to try one designed for hikers. The StickPic is a simple ring you slide onto your trekking pole then attach your compact camera to it. They sent me one to try out and I really haven't used it much, but love the concept. These are great for getting a little needed distance between you and the camera. Don't count on them to help in low light situations as holding the camera out like that will be less stable than hand-holding.

This is by no means a complete list of options. There are all sorts of goodies left out from here, but I've tried to touch on some of the better, more common options for Geocachers. Here are my recommendations for Geocachers based on their camera type;
For cameraphone users: Try a bean bag. There are tripods (like the Gorilla Mobile) specifically made for some cameraphones and that's a great option as well.
For compact camera users: Try the Gorillapod. These are small, flexible tripods great for use on the trail and generally don't cost too much. If you're already using a trekking pole add the StickPic for those quick self-portraits.
For super-zoom users: A cheap tripod from one of the big box stores might be your best pick to start. That will allow you a range of heights and will free stand on the trail. Of course Gorillapod has options that work too and are worth consideration.
For DSLR users: For all your photography I can't recommend highly enough buying a quality tripod. A great alternative though is the bean bag which can get closer to the ground and will be easier to carry.
Future articles in this series will talk more about how to take advantage of these supports, but come back next week as we look a self-timers and remote releases.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

{ 0 comments }

Episode 150 Caching People w/ PnD

by andy on April 14, 2010

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On this episode we chat with Paul and Dana Gillin the authors of “The Joy of Geocaching”. In writing this book they got to hear lots of great stories and meet some really cool geocachers. We chat with them about a tiny number of the stories that they came across.

LINKS:
Audio
Joy Of Geocaching website
PnD Geocaching profile
Joy of Geocaching facebook page
Buy Joy of Geocaching @ Amazon
Photography for cachers 07
CacheMate for Android Version 1.3.4
New Garmin Oregon, Dakota and Colorado software, fixes map display issues, BirdsEye enabled per profile


Have feedback about this episode? Call our voicemail: 206-350-3GPS

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P4C: Cameras

by Darrylw4 on April 13, 2010

There are more cameras today than ever before and each type serves a different purpose. For simplicity I'll break the list up into four basic groups; cameraphones, compacts, super-zooms, and SLRs. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, but keep in mind that any camera won't do any good if it's sitting on the shelf at home when you're out and want a photo. For that reason you'll often find that your cameraphone is the best camera for geocaching. However if you're like me you want something much more flexible with better quality than your phone can offer. Being that we want to post these photos online we're best served by digital cameras rather than film, and at this point its pretty hard to find a new film camera. Now let's look at each of those four classes and the benefits and draws backs of each as they apply to Geocachers.CamerasCameraphone refers not just to phones with built-in cameras, but to many small standalone devices using the same chips as are built into cameraphones. They generally have lenses without optical zoom capabilities, instead offering a digital zoom if anything. That makes them smaller and lighter but inhibits the quality of the image. (Much of the difference between cameras is actually in the optics rather than the sensor, and a digital zoom simply crops in on the image reducing quality and resolution.) They usually lack an iris to control the light depending instead on changing the sensitivity and length of the exposure which limits their usability in extreme lighting conditions. Despite these drawbacks, there's two things which make phones great cameras. When coupled with a data plan they can send images or videos immediately from just about anywhere. You can e-mail a photo to a cache owner, upload to a web photo gallery, or even tweet without connecting through a computer. The other factor is they're small, weight very little, and you're most likely already carrying one. That last point is what makes it such a wonderful tool for Geocachers.

Compact cameras come in a range from simple to advanced usually providing better image quality and options than the cameraphones. Many include both optical and digital zooms, while still remaining small and light. These lenses are usually targeted at the general user who want to shoot photos at parties, and of children playing, but not the birds in the far off trees, so don't look for large magnification factors here. (Remember that when a camera is said to have a "3X Zoom" that refers only to the range of the zoom from the widest to most telephoto lengths and not to the magnification factor.) A few compact cameras are sealed to shoot underwater, in the rain, snow, and mud without damaging the camera itself. Finding a camera like this, built with some shock resistance as well, makes a great option for a camera on the trail. Generally they don't allow for much manual control preferring to rely on automated features making them easy to use and user-proof. There are some which provide those manual control but typically you'll have to move into the super-zooms or SLRs for those features.

Super-zoom cameras are much larger, heavier, and sport wider zoom ranges with more telephoto options than the compacts. They frequently allow their users to manually control the aperture, shutter speed, and focus giving creative and technical control for those who want it. I typically find this class to be the least useful as they're about the same cost, weight, and size as the low-end of the SLR market. Like just about everything else you'll find the exception like a high-speed shutter, built-in GPSR for geotagging, or a wireless connection to make them appealing.

SLRs have been around since the days of packaged film and were the cameras which quality photography to the masses. The abbreviation stands for Single Lens Reflex, meaning the user is looking through the same lens as will be used to record the image thanks to a mirror which lifts before the shutter opens to take the picture. Today they range from small, low-cost kits available for beginners through the large, very expensive professional bodies. SLRs provide an optical viewfinder which doesn't get washed out by the sun or have any lag as with LCD viewfinders. They usually feature interchangeable lens systems giving the owner the option to purchase the range of lenses they want. SLRs are big, heavy, and cost more than the compact cameras, but give you much more control and versatility.

DNO_Dennis and DarrylW4 with the iPhone
photo by Lawrence of Berkley
Of course being the gear head I am, at least one of each of these camera classes exist in my stable. The only camera I am guaranteed to have with me is the iPhone 3G S. I actually prefer that over the compact camera because of the size, connection, and the versatility of the iPhone (I can edit and send the photo before I've left the cache). The compact camera I carry on some of the riskier hikes is one of those waterproof, shockproof models. The Lumix DMC-TS1 gives me the protection of not needing to worry about dropping it in the mud or river, then if I do a little water cleans it right up. The camera I prefer to use on the trail is really the Nikon D300s DSLRs (the extra "D" stands for digital). That's a slightly smaller camera than the Nikon D700 I usually use to shoot, but with it's smaller image sensor I get to use smaller, lighter lenses, and some with great ranges.
Firefly03 and DarrylW4 check the DSLR
photo by Lawrence of Berkley
It gives me the same controls though as the bigger version which is that I like when I'm shooting. It's big and heavy though so most of the Geocaching trips it stays at home. The only camera I never use is the super-zoom as it's only a little smaller than the D300s without the image quality, control, battery life, or even zoom range I can get through a couple of lenses on that D300s. Since I always have the iPhone though, I'm really looking to have something at the opposite end of that camera spectrum on the trail – when I want to haul it around.

Next I'll talk a little more about gear, but if you have a digital camera chances are it will serve you well in the field. If not, perhaps this information has given you a little help to see the camera features better for caching. Never forget though that the cameraphone you're carrying with you is always there making it the best camera you have for geocaching.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

{ 1 comment }

P4C: Cameras

by Darrylw4 on April 13, 2010

There are more cameras today than ever before and each type serves a different purpose. For simplicity I'll break the list up into four basic groups; cameraphones, compacts, super-zooms, and SLRs. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, but keep in mind that any camera won't do any good if it's sitting on the shelf at home when you're out and want a photo. For that reason you'll often find that your cameraphone is the best camera for geocaching. However if you're like me you want something much more flexible with better quality than your phone can offer. Being that we want to post these photos online we're best served by digital cameras rather than film, and at this point its pretty hard to find a new film camera. Now let's look at each of those four classes and the benefits and draws backs of each as they apply to Geocachers.CamerasCameraphone refers not just to phones with built-in cameras, but to many small standalone devices using the same chips as are built into cameraphones. They generally have lenses without optical zoom capabilities, instead offering a digital zoom if anything. That makes them smaller and lighter but inhibits the quality of the image. (Much of the difference between cameras is actually in the optics rather than the sensor, and a digital zoom simply crops in on the image reducing quality and resolution.) They usually lack an iris to control the light depending instead on changing the sensitivity and length of the exposure which limits their usability in extreme lighting conditions. Despite these drawbacks, there's two things which make phones great cameras. When coupled with a data plan they can send images or videos immediately from just about anywhere. You can e-mail a photo to a cache owner, upload to a web photo gallery, or even tweet without connecting through a computer. The other factor is they're small, weight very little, and you're most likely already carrying one. That last point is what makes it such a wonderful tool for Geocachers.

Compact cameras come in a range from simple to advanced usually providing better image quality and options than the cameraphones. Many include both optical and digital zooms, while still remaining small and light. These lenses are usually targeted at the general user who want to shoot photos at parties, and of children playing, but not the birds in the far off trees, so don't look for large magnification factors here. (Remember that when a camera is said to have a "3X Zoom" that refers only to the range of the zoom from the widest to most telephoto lengths and not to the magnification factor.) A few compact cameras are sealed to shoot underwater, in the rain, snow, and mud without damaging the camera itself. Finding a camera like this, built with some shock resistance as well, makes a great option for a camera on the trail. Generally they don't allow for much manual control preferring to rely on automated features making them easy to use and user-proof. There are some which provide those manual control but typically you'll have to move into the super-zooms or SLRs for those features.

Super-zoom cameras are much larger, heavier, and sport wider zoom ranges with more telephoto options than the compacts. They frequently allow their users to manually control the aperture, shutter speed, and focus giving creative and technical control for those who want it. I typically find this class to be the least useful as they're about the same cost, weight, and size as the low-end of the SLR market. Like just about everything else you'll find the exception like a high-speed shutter, built-in GPSR for geotagging, or a wireless connection to make them appealing.

SLRs have been around since the days of packaged film and were the cameras which quality photography to the masses. The abbreviation stands for Single Lens Reflex, meaning the user is looking through the same lens as will be used to record the image thanks to a mirror which lifts before the shutter opens to take the picture. Today they range from small, low-cost kits available for beginners through the large, very expensive professional bodies. SLRs provide an optical viewfinder which doesn't get washed out by the sun or have any lag as with LCD viewfinders. They usually feature interchangeable lens systems giving the owner the option to purchase the range of lenses they want. SLRs are big, heavy, and cost more than the compact cameras, but give you much more control and versatility.

DNO_Dennis and DarrylW4 with the iPhone
photo by Lawrence of Berkley
Of course being the gear head I am, at least one of each of these camera classes exist in my stable. The only camera I am guaranteed to have with me is the iPhone 3G S. I actually prefer that over the compact camera because of the size, connection, and the versatility of the iPhone (I can edit and send the photo before I've left the cache). The compact camera I carry on some of the riskier hikes is one of those waterproof, shockproof models. The Lumix DMC-TS1 gives me the protection of not needing to worry about dropping it in the mud or river, then if I do a little water cleans it right up. The camera I prefer to use on the trail is really the Nikon D300s DSLRs (the extra "D" stands for digital). That's a slightly smaller camera than the Nikon D700 I usually use to shoot, but with it's smaller image sensor I get to use smaller, lighter lenses, and some with great ranges.
Firefly03 and DarrylW4 check the DSLR
photo by Lawrence of Berkley
It gives me the same controls though as the bigger version which is that I like when I'm shooting. It's big and heavy though so most of the Geocaching trips it stays at home. The only camera I never use is the super-zoom as it's only a little smaller than the D300s without the image quality, control, battery life, or even zoom range I can get through a couple of lenses on that D300s. Since I always have the iPhone though, I'm really looking to have something at the opposite end of that camera spectrum on the trail – when I want to haul it around.

Next I'll talk a little more about gear, but if you have a digital camera chances are it will serve you well in the field. If not, perhaps this information has given you a little help to see the camera features better for caching. Never forget though that the cameraphone you're carrying with you is always there making it the best camera you have for geocaching.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

{ 0 comments }

Episode 149 – April Cacher Coffee

by andy on April 7, 2010

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Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

On this episode we have our monthly cacher coffee. This is a time where anyone in the chat room can bring up and chat about any geocaching topic. On this show we talk about how to convert muggles. We also have several milestones called into our voice mail (206-350-3GPS) and we chat about the darrylw4′s first looks at the Magellan eXplorist GC. We answer questions like “Is this only a geocaching unit”, “Can you change the pre-loaded caches” and much more.

LINKS:
Audio
Historical Society Darrylw4 Visited
What we do for a smiley
Photography for cachers: Adding Photos to Descriptions
Geocaching.com Release notes 4/1/10
Geocaching iPhone app 3.1 release
Geosphere iPhone App Version 2.1.2
Smittyware CacheMate 1.0.8 for the Windows Smartphones
MiTACMagellan Communicator plug-in
Garmin BirdsEye Satellite Imagery
First Look: Magellan eXplorist GC


Have feedback about this episode? Call our voicemail: 206-350-3GPS

Subscribe to the Podcast:

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Geocaching with Geosphere version 2.1.2

by Darrylw4 on April 6, 2010

Checking my iPhone app updates this morning I found a new version of Geocaching with Geosphere now available in the iTunes App Store. This version improves support fo external GPSRs. I'm looking forward to the "Significant upgrade coming soon...." Full release notes on version 2.1.2 are available from the Geosphere Support Forums.

-- Posted From My iPhone

{ 0 comments }

P4C: Adding Photos to Descriptions

by Darrylw4 on April 6, 2010

With that URL for an image we grabbed last week, it's time to add the image into a cache or trackable description. We'll need to use some very basic HTML to use that URL. While the trackables use HTML code by default in their descriptions, cache descriptions require that you set a checkbox on the cache editing page to allow the HTML code. Starting from the edit page for your cache, just under the "Details" heading look for the "The descriptions below are in HTML" checkbox and make sure it is selected. Now you're ready drop in the HTML code to show your image in the description.

The most basic way to include the image in the description is by entering the following:

(the URL should be the image URL you grabbed from last week's article). This simple drops in the image inline with the text as formatted. To get it on it's own line, add line breaks in front and behind, so it looks like this:



If you'd rather, and I generally do, you can have the text wrap around the image by placing it at either the left or right (I should note that once support for IE6 is terminated on Geocaching.com there are better ways to do this) by adding align:

It's generally best to size the image before upload, but you can have the browser do the work through the image tag by adding width and height:

This can be especially useful by linking to the full size image allowing the user to click through:

Of course there's much more you can do with HTML and even the image tag, so this is just the basics of how to get in and add the image to the descriptions. For more information about the image tag and it's usage check out w3schools.com. I highly recommend playing with these commands on an unpublished listing to see how they work and test to see if they're compatible. There's a bunch of good information about HTML and it's worth checking out to improve your listings.

Fortunately that wraps up the information about posting images to Geocaching.com and next week starting talking about the gear. Come back then for information about cameras and some basic gear you'll want handy on the trail. Don't forget that next Monday is the twelfth, another chance to try the 12 of 12.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

{ 1 comment }

P4C: Adding Photos to Descriptions

by Darrylw4 on April 6, 2010

With that URL for an image we grabbed last week, it's time to add the image into a cache or trackable description. We'll need to use some very basic HTML to use that URL. While the trackables use HTML code by default in their descriptions, cache descriptions require that you set a checkbox on the cache editing page to allow the HTML code. Starting from the edit page for your cache, just under the "Details" heading look for the "The descriptions below are in HTML" checkbox and make sure it is selected. Now you're ready drop in the HTML code to show your image in the description.

The most basic way to include the image in the description is by entering the following:
<img src="URL">
(the URL should be the image URL you grabbed from last week's article). This simple drops in the image inline with the text as formatted. To get it on it's own line, add line breaks in front and behind, so it looks like this:
<br><img src="http://host.com/image.jpg"><br>
If you'd rather, and I generally do, you can have the text wrap around the image by placing it at either the left or right (I should note that once support for IE6 is terminated on Geocaching.com there are better ways to do this) by adding align:
<img src="http://host.com/image.jpg" align="right">
It's generally best to size the image before upload, but you can have the browser do the work through the image tag by adding width and height:
<img src="http://host.com/image.jpg" width="50%" height="50%">
This can be especially useful by linking to the full size image allowing the user to click through:
<a href="http://host.com/image.jpg"><img src="http://host.com/image.jpg" width="50%" height="50%"></a>
Of course there's much more you can do with HTML and even the image tag, so this is just the basics of how to get in and add the image to the descriptions. For more information about the image tag and it's usage check out w3schools.com. I highly recommend playing with these commands on an unpublished listing to see how they work and test to see if they're compatible. There's a bunch of good information about HTML and it's worth checking out to improve your listings.

Fortunately that wraps up the information about posting images to Geocaching.com and next week starting talking about the gear. Come back then for information about cameras and some basic gear you'll want handy on the trail. Don't forget that next Monday is the twelfth, another chance to try the 12 of 12.

Text and images in this post are copyright 2010 by Darryl Wattenberg, all rights reserved.

{ 0 comments }